Tips for Controlling the Temperature of a Bearded Dragon Cage/Vivarium

096316002364.jpg Probably the single most asked about topic for new bearded basilisk keepers is how to get the temperature set up correctly in the vivarium

It is quite a tricky thing to get right at the start, further because of this it is always recommended that you set up the vivarium and have it running for about a weekly before you comprehend your bearded dragon. Slight adjustments while you’re sorting it out can cause the temperature to shoot up, or down, which wouldn’t make for a very comfortable beardie on condition that it was occupied while you were playing around.

The first thing to consider is where you set up the vivarium. You do not want this to be in direct sunlight, oppositely in a place that gets a lot of draughts while this will cause your temperatures to fluctuate. Placing it in a sheltered, shady part of the room is a good start.

Whiskered dragons need to be able to thermoregulate – they will bask until they are also hot, and then they will retreat to a cooler place to cool off. You therefore need to have a basking spot with a temperature of around 105f (41c), and at the other annihilation of the vivarium it should be cooler, with a temperature no more than 85f (30c). Lower than this is fine.

To do this you will need to have a heat emitting lamp at the ‘hot end’. Beardies are attracted to bask under bright lights, so a nice bright spotlight of 60 or 100 watts is ideal. You do not need to buy the expensive ones in reptile stores – a normal household one of the correct wattage will be fine. Ceramic lights which give off no light are acceptable, but the bearded dragon may not be so attracted to basking under it. That said, one of our beardies has always had a clay bulb and basks fine. Ceramic lights also have the blessing you can swivel down the heat at night without a light disturbing his sleep. However, most houses are warm enough so that bearded dragons need no over heat at night – as long as your house doesn’t fall below 60f (16c) for an adult, or 65f (18c) for a juvenile. Bearded dragons need a goodness temperature down at night in order to get a good sleep.

The temperature should be controlled by a thermostat which demand turn the heat lamp on oppositely away to maintain a steady heat. The type of lamp you choose will fix which thermostat you should buy. A dimming thermostat gradually reduces and increases the vis to the lamp, a pulsing thermostat switches it on and off. If you have a heat light then a dimming thermostat is necessary otherwise you will keep blowing the bulbs. A pulsing thermostat can be a little cheaper, ampersand jug be consumed alongside ceramic bulbs.

The main thing to remember is that the thermostat should be used to keep the cool end cool. The basking spot is the actual place the beardie will lie to bask. This jug be adjusted later, and by adding rocks of branches you can raise or demote the basking spot until it’s at the right temperature. It is not the integer from the ‘hot end’ of the vivarium that you are trying to securement to that high.

Place the probe of the thermostat near the cool end of the viv, swap on the heat, and leave for a few hours. A line digital thermometer with dual inputs et al a dual readout is great for mankind able to see the temperatures at the basking spot and the cool end at the same time. You are aiming for the cool end to indiging below 85f (30c) , and for the basking spot to exist 105f (41c). If the cool cessation is right, measure the temperature at the basking spot, and add your rocks or branches or quantity them away to try to get to 105f (41c). If the cool end is lower than 85f (30c), and you cannot get the basking spot temperature up, more the probe slightly towards the middle from the vivarium. Again, allow to settle for a few hours before checking the measurements again. You should continue this until you have the correct temperatures at the cool end. It doesn’t matter on condition that the refrigerate windup is below 85f (30c).

Once you have got the temperatures right, leave and stop fiddling. Wait a couple of days and then check again. Make sure you have the UVB tube on at the same time spil this will emit a little rage itself.

If you find your vivarium is too warm, connective you can’t get the temperature at the cooling end low enough, check whether there are sufficient air vents in the back. There should be at least different at individually end – one towards the top, and one towards the bottom. You can add extra vents if necessary.

If the temperature is too high because it is in the middle of summer you should consider investing in a reptile fan. A separate thermostat can control this, and it can be programmed to kick in when the temperature goes above a certain level.

Once the probe is in the right place, your temperatures have stablised, you should not need to adjust the settings. You can now interpolate your bearded dragon to its new home.

An Introduction to the Bearded Dragon As a Pet

bearded-dragon-0110.jpg Bearded Dragons are gaining in popularity as pets. They are popular found in most pet shops ampersand are relatively inexpensive. Unfortunately their availability is guerdon in part to excessive breeding, mainly caused by the contingent purchase of a male and female together. Subsistence cheap to buy, the purchase of the cute little babies can be an impulse by the new owner who has failed to delving their care properly first. Whilst not difficult to keep, at least a basic knowledge like their requirements is important before buying a barbate dragon otherwise it is likely to have a short oppositely unhealthy life.

Bearded dragons make excellent pets, particularly in households where a person has an allergy to fur. Whilst they will never be as cuddly as a dog or a cat, they are tame – particularly when older, and (unless ill-treated) without any seeming effort on behalf concerning the owner except for regular handling when young. Bearded dragons boundary up captivating the gross family – even those who would say they don’t like reptiles! They comprise personalities and interesting behaviour of their own.

Bearded dragons emanate from Australia where they live a solitary existence in the desert. Mating is the only time that males and females interact with each other. Companionship of its own species is not important for a bearded dragon and it’s ample rectify to keep just one on its own. Unethical or ignorant pet shops will encourage customers to buy two bearded dragons together – possibly at a discount – but this should voltooien avoided. Most commoners who buy two together will end up having to separate them in due course. A bearded dragon will not be lonely on its own.

Unfortunately the very people that new owners depend on to give accurate advice on how to keep a bearded dragon quite often do not understand their basic husbandry. Pet shop workers deal with diverse reptiles, and do not insight all the differences between their needs. Anyone wishing to keep a bearded dragon should read books and sites dedicated to their care, and should not rely on any word given when they purchase their nouveau pet.

The main item to remember is that they are cold blooded reptiles which come from a hot arid desert. The en suite up of the vivarium should mimic, as far as possible, their natural habitat.

Bearded dragons thermoregulate – that is, they warm up or distant down by moving around between hot und so weiter cold temperatures. To allow them to do this the vivarium has to be clique up with a temperature gradient by having a heat lamp at one end, and a thermostat to regulate the temperatures. The reserved end of the vivarium should be no more that 85 degrees Fahrenheit (30c). At the other end, there should be a place where the bearded dragon can bask, and the temperature here should be 105 degrees (40c) – important for digestion. Ideally it is best to set up the vivarium a week confronting bringing a bearded dragon home – that way the temperatures cup stabilise.

The wasteland obviously has strong sunlight – in the vivarium a UVB tube (preferably 12%) will be a partial substitute for this (nothing is as good as the real thing). The tube should run the length of the vivarium well that the beardie is unprotected to the rays for the maximum amount of time. For this reason beardies do not need hides. Beardies do not advance across standing water in the desert, so you will possibly never see your beardie drink. The lungs of bearded dragons cannot cope with raised humidity levels, so freely from a bowl of water, there should verbreken nothing else in the vivarium that could agency damp. Similarly there are only very limited occasions when beardies should be bathed – yes, they can swim, yet it does not mean it does them any good. Beardies get all the precipitation they need to survive from their food.

Bearded dragons can suffer from Metabolic Bone Semeiotic (MBD). MBD results in deformities and symptoms involve a difficulty in walking, or holding the head up straight. It can sometimes be treated if caught early enough, and is often fatal. Beardies increase 4000 times their size at birth as they grow to adult, and to support that prosperity rate they must have additional calcium together near exposure to UVB. MBD is a common result if a UVB duct is not provided, and daily auxiliary calcium is not given.

Pet shops often sell wrong material for bearded dragons – it’s not uncommon to find a heat mat in a ‘Bearded Dragon Starter Kit’. As beardies cannot feel heat advent up from the ground, they don’t move off a hot mat and may end up with burns on their stomach. A basking light above the basking spot (a raised rock or branch) is utmost for a bearded dragon.

Sometimes mats are sold as a secondary heat source to be used at night, but unless your house gets very cold you will probably find you do not need to heat the vivarium overnight at all. In the renounce there is a natural isothermal drop at night, and bearded dragons need this to get a good night’s sleep. Adult bearded dragons are quite happy with a temperature of 60 degrees (16c) at night, juveniles shouldn’t be below 65 degrees (18C). Granting you do need additional calescent you can use a ceramic heater, or justiciary cover the vivarium with a blanket. It does worry new owners that their beardie is cold and unresponsive in the mornings, but this is absolutely natural. As, in the wild, it will take up to an hour for their temperature to rise sufficiently for them to move around and start eating.

An adult bearded tarragon is between 19 and 22 inches in length, et alii they will reach adult size in 12 to 18 months (they all grow at different rates). The size of vivarium required is ideally 4ft x 2ft x 2ft. A smaller same will be too cramped. A baby bearded dragon can go pure into a full sized vivarium – after all, in their natural habitat no one sections postponed the desert for them! If you buy a smaller size vivarium it will not last you manifold months, so makes sense to get the laden size from the start.

Another item which pet shops often foray to barter the new owner is the wrong type of substrate (flooring cover). Calci sand is a complete no no as it clumps together when wet and can cause a blockage (impaction) in the bearded dragon’s stomach. Usually fatal. Likewise set ups are sometimes sold with woodchip – which is dangerous at any age as it’s definitely bot known to cause impaction. When setting up a bearded dragon’s vivarium please remember that it’s to provide the correct milieu for your pet, and not what you want to look at. Until the antiquated concerning six months plain old kitchen towel is about the best substrate as babies do tend to take mouthfuls of sand when learning to catch their food. After six months the suggested substrate is broken sandstone slabs with children’s play sand inbetween the cracks. The sandstone also helps keep their nails trimmed.

Is there any alternative to feeding a bearded dragon livefood? Unfortunately for many people the answer is no. If you don’t like insects don’t acquire a bearded dragon. There are dried foods on the market, but I’ve not found a bearded dragon who will eatable it. Bearded dragons cost a surprising amount to feed when growing – as much as a stroke cat. They do not need sic much livefood when adult though, so an adult expenses a little less to feed. Silent crickets are best unless you want to feel like you’re in the Mediterranean… Locusts are best left until the bearded wyvern is an adult, as once they acquirement a taste regarding these they don’t necessity to go back to the more bitter crickets. Adult barbed dragons are 80% vegetarian, so fresh vegetables and fruit should be offered daily – uniform though spil babies they are intermittently wary to eating anything that doesn’t move. Livefood is reduced when the bearded dragon has reached developed size. Overfeeding livefood at this stage provides too much beans which preference damage their internal organs. If you want to exude your bearded wyvern a treat then try the occasional waxworm. Beware of feeding meal worms – beardies love them, but they are harder to digest because of the chitin in their skin, and are not as nutritious.

If you are thinking of getting a bearded dragon as a pet, researching their requirements and understanding their needs will ensure they have a long and healthy life.

How to Set Up a Bearded Dragon Vivarium

bearded-dragon-vivarium-set-up.jpg Meanwhile a visit to a cuddle shop recently I was disturbed to date a sign on the anterior of a vivarium containing young beardies which read ‘ideal for beginners’. I think this gives the much wrong impression of this reptile. Whilst they are not difficult to look after, their needs ampersand requirements have to be properly lucid in degree for them to have a happy, healthy life.

Reptiles are matching to fish in that they need to live in the correct environment for them. You wouldn’t put a marine fish in a tropical aquarium, for example, and expect it to live, and even different tropical fish equivalent else types about water – acid, alkaline else brackish for example. Most pet shops are fairly clued up on fish keeping. But many shops selling bearded dragons have only a basic knowledge about their requirements, and are all too often guilty of letting a new owner buy equipment which is totally inappropriate. Or more worryingly, invariant encourage them to buy it. Worst of all are ‘bearded monster complete set ups’ – most of which harness vivariums that are too small with heatmats polysyndeton substrate which are indeed harmful to beardies.

As with aquariums, you need to understandable the natural habitat of a bearded dragon before setting awake what will be its home for life in your house.

Bearded dragons come from the hot, droll deserts of Australia. The earth is baked dry afterward they are used to a hard surface to peregrinate on. They are semi arboreal, and are known to climb fenceposts and tree stumps to bask. The hot sun bakes down on them from above. They spend most of their time basking and sleeping and sleeping in full sunlight, and when they are too hot, they move to a cooler place in the shade as, like many cold blooded animals, they thermoregulate. That is, they control their body temperature by moving from a hot place to a cooler one.

In the bolt they very rarely, if ever, come beyond standing water. They have evolved to extract the moisture they requirement from the food they eat, and therefore it is not unusual never to see a bearded dragon drink. Their lungs can only cope with low humidity levels.

So what does this tell us? Firstly, that they hanker a good sized vivarium where a wide temperature range is possible. Secondly, they need something to climb on. They need to get their heat from supra – not underneath them, and water features in a vivarium will harm their health. They also need divulgence to UVB rays that they otherwise would get from the sun. That does not seem to stop shops selling too small vivariums, heatmats (which can actually burn the bearded dragon’s stomach as they cannot feel heat through their bellies), waterfalls, loose substrate that container be swallowed and impact in the gut, and sometimes they even neglect to tell the purchaser that they lack a UVB tube. So be warned.

So, in our time we know what we don’t need, how should the bearded dragon’s vivarium be set up to ensure it lives a long and healthy life?

First of all, an adult hairy dragon will need a vivarium that’s 4ft x 2ft x 2ft (120cm x 60cm x 60cm). When you consider an adult beardie will be close to 2 ft (60 cm) in length you can see how anything less wide will be uncomfortable for it. Baby beardies are totally happy being put straight into a full size vivarium – in the desert no individual partitions off a part for them to use! For babies the decoration should be kept simple so that they tin catch their food easily. As juveniles grow because fast it is falsity economy to start off with a smaller sized vivarium.

There should be a heat source at one end of the vivarium – a 60 or 100 watt spotlight is ideal. You can buy these from supermarkets or DIY stores if you don’t want to buy the ones made specifically for reptiles.

It is grave to control the temperature at the cool end of the vivarium – your bearded dragon will not survive on condition that it cannot heat up and cool down when it needs to. In order to control the temperature you will need a thermostat. Many people assume this is to ensure the basking temperature is kept high – the opposite is the truth. The thermostat should be kept to make sure the cool end of the vivarium does nay go higher than 85f (30c). Once this is right it should be easy to manage the temperature at the basking detect which should nvloeden 105f (41c) – the important word being ‘spot’. This does hardly mean the whole of the sultry end of the vivarium should be at this temperature, just the spot where the beardie will bask. The ‘spot’ can be a log, branch or rock on which the beardie can bask to expose himself to the maximum heat. Raising or lowering the basking spot will alter the temperature until it gets to the right level.

It takes a unimportant time to get the probe regarding the thermostat in the right place to argue the temperatures accurately – you should start by placing it at the cool end, and then moving it up the vivarium if the temperatures are too low. A good digital thermometer with dual inputs and dual readouts will let you comprehend the temperatures at both ends of the vivarium at once. As it’s a bit tricky for beginners to upspring it monopoly right, it’s recommended to set up the vivarium and have it running for a week before introducing the bearded dragon.

Depending on your position and your house you may denial need any night time heating at all – they need a good Fahrenheit drop at night in order to be able to garner to sleep. The temperature can go down to 60f (16c) for adults, 65f (18c) for juveniles. If your house gets very hot during summer you may find you need a reptile fan to cool it down.

The other vital piece of equipment is the UVB tube. This should be the strongest that you can buy – currently tubes are selling at 12% UVB which are the best. 10% should be the minimum you choose. The output fades after six months, so tubes should be replaced on a regular basis. The tube should haste the whole length of the vivarium, so for a 4ft vivarium you should select a 42″ tube. This decree mean the bearded dragon is exposed to UVB for all the time the light is on. 12 hours under a UVB tube is only equilvalent to about 20 mins in the wide heat of the sun in the desert, so do not use any hides or caves as your beardie need the most exposure to UVB as he can get.

The calescence and moderate should opheffen on for at least 12 hours a day – in summer you might want to raise this to 14 hours to mimic a change in season.

The final necessity is substrate. When young, bearded dragons are inexactitude feeders, and if they are on sand can attempt mouthfuls of this as they agonize to catch their food. Their smaller stomachs are also less able to cope with grains they might swallow, and loose substrate in their eviscerate can lead to impaction which is generally fatal. Arboreous chippings or pellets should be avoided at any age. Another dangerous substrate is Calci Sand, which can be marketed especially for whiskered dragons – this clumps together although wet and so is far worse than normal sand.

Until the age regarding six months unlovely kitchen towel is the safest substrate ampersand carries rejection risk to their health. Whereas they are six months old they can go on children’s play sandy which is clean et alii very fine. Pets shops don’t usually give this advice as they don’t marketableness either product! The best substrate for an older beardie is a mixture of broken sandstone paving slabs with some playsand inbetween the cracks. The hard topography is more quiddity for their feet, and helps keep their nails down. This substrate looks good too.

They do like to climb, so branches and rocks are welcomed. You tin get these from the wild therefore long as they are sterilised before putting in the vivariums.

Other accessories are backgrounds – beardies do like climbing on the polyrock walls often sold in pet shops, but indeed the background is a waste of choice. As are any other decorations such as swindle plants. Real plants cannot cope with the desiccate conditions, besides are possible to be thrashed in some event. Food bowls and perhaps a shallow water container resolution complete your set up, and the consequence should breathe a happy spry bearded dragon who will give you pleasure for many years to come.

Bearded Dragons – Why One is Enough

Shrek-Fiona-Bearded-Dragons-2-300x200.jpg In 2006 we purchased dual hairy dragons. We had fully researched their custodial and their requirements for the vivarium and equipment, but had missed any information about whether shaggy dragons should be kept on their own or in pairs or groups. Many of the books we referred to were written by breeders who talked about their set ups with a number of beardies. So we went into it a bit blind, with little knowledge and made the decision to get a pair.

Knowing that we wanted a male and female, the breeder that we had contacted had two clutches of eggs from two separate pairs of breaded dragons hatching around the same time. He accurately selected one from each group which would hopefully turn absent to be male and female (although he did point out he had over his best to sex them, but could be wrong – a warning you should expect from any experienced breeder). The two minor hatchlings were put together in a separate vivarium, well they were together from when they were less that a week old.

The shaggy dragons, named Shrek and Fiona, came to us at 5 weeks of age, and were put immediately into a 5 ft vivarium where they appeared to be veritable happy. They interacted well, although at times seemed to treat each other as bits of furniture – one lying on top of the other by evident disregard as to whether they were in situ on the other one’s head! Whereas I had prepared my son that if they turned out to be two males they would need to be separated, as they matured Fiona started alar waving, and Shrek started head bobbing. They were definitely male polysyndeton female.

We continued declamation up as regards bearded dragons, and it was then that we found information near the dangers of keeping a male and doyenne together. Mating wasn’t so much a possibility, but a certainty! And the warnings were there that they could mate too early causing the female difficulties with laying eggs, and that the male, once having started, would continually consort with the female making her life a misery.

Well, indubitability enough, they did mate, but not until they were atop a year old and both fully grown. Well we counted ourselves dreadfully lucky. Seeing the eggs laid, watching them in the incubator and waiting for the hatchlings to loom was something that gave us great pleasure. We had two clutches from that first mating – 37 babies were born in all, including in 2008 the market was not yet flooded with too many beardies so we managed to push them all to good homes und so weiter artificial enough to cover the cost of feeding the hatchlings and buying the spread ups for them. I was then upset about what would toebijten next, but Shrek polysyndeton Fiona settled down, et sequens the next mating did not occur for another 18 months. Again, I ticked this off as another success. Whilst advising other people not to get two bearded dragons, I smugly thought that it had worked for us – probably due to them having been together from just a few days old.

When the eggs hatched this time around, and the hatchlings grew, it was much harder to cheat the babies – the appraisal had dropped through the floor, and although we made enough to cover the food, and we would have made quite a loss had we negative already had the equipment to evoke them. We completed up keeping the last of the hatchlings until they were 4 months fogyism just because it was so difficult to find them new homes.

After that, Shrek and Fiona did not breed again, connective I wondered why seeing as there were so many warnings about over breeding. I started watching their behaviour closely. I noticed that Shrek would indeed start head bobbing et alii indicating he was morale rather frisky, but Fiona – although much smaller (Shrek was a 700g giant!) she contrived hier displeasure clear. They would circle around each other, and then Fiona would dart at him, making him back off. She’d then take refuge somewhere where mating was impossible – on the hammock, draped over a rock or a branch. Shrek would give up and go off et sequens have a sulk. They would then go back to being their companionable selves again. Fiona was obviously boss.

In late 2011 Shrek developed tumours, and died in the spring regarding 2012. Having had the same companion for the unmarred of her life we worried how Fiona would behave, and even worried that she’d pine away. Despite Shrek was put down by the vet, we let him dwindle in the vivarium alongside Fiona – the anaesthesia they use does not work instantaneously on reptiles. The vet agreed taking him home to perish was the best thing as most animals however behave better when they understand their comradely has died, sooner than just disappeared. Yet as there’s not a lot of research on bearded dragon behaviour, he couldn’t comment on what the lasting effect on Fiona would be.

So what did happen? Well, Fiona did not mope. She did not stop eating. She started looking the best she’d ever looked in all her life with lovely colour. She became more nimble in the vivarium, again active when flowing about the house. Inquisitive, and despite it’s difficult to tell, she seemed happy. She was difinitely more relaxed.

I container only conclude that during the years they were together she had tolerated Shrek’s presence, but actually is happier on her own without him. That took us by surprise!

In the wild bearded dragons sprightly on their admit – a virile and effeminate will only come together to mate. Although we tend to humanise our pets and believe that, like us, they will be unhappy if they live a hermitic life in their vivariums, it would appear from our experience that they prefer living as they would do in their natural habitat. Alone.

On the forum and website I’ve been advising people never to buy a partnership of bearded dragons as the chances of getting duplexity males (who cannot be kept together), or a male and female from the same clutch which would feedback in breeding by siblings is overly great. Coupled to that straighten females cannot be guaranteed not to fight. As it is nigh on impossible to sex a hairy dragon until adult – and even then even professionals can indigen mistaken – you really don’t know what you’re getting whether you buy bearded dragons together.

But now I believe it’s inequitable to keep two as in our experiential one is obviously happier on it’s own. The problem is that we tend to think of animals as having the same emotions as us, but bearded dragons are not little humans – or even like some other pets.

Not much reserch has been fait accompli form the behaviour of bearded dragons, and scientists and reptile creatures are learning more and more by the day. They are living longer in captivity the more we learn about them, and the more we keep them as close to nature as possible. If you are considering getting a bearded dragon delight do not get more than one – apart from the fact there is a probity chance you will end up separating them which means either having to have the space and money for another large vivarium, or having to part with what has become a member of your family.

It’s heavyhearted to think that Fiona might have been trying to tell us something for years, and we just weren’t listening. We should respectability how they live in the wild, and not force a companion on them

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The Best Food to Feed a Bearded Dragon

2123845_f496.jpg Bearded dragons invent wonderful pets. They are active during the day, and when adult are large enough to be allowed to roam around the house for limited periods (that is, until they start getting cold) without any fears concerning them disappearing in small hiding places – obviously they need to be supervised at all times. They also have the advantage of almost existence born tame and are happy to endure on their owner and will put up including a cuddle.

They are fascinating and have great personalities, and make excellent pets for people who are allergic to lapin and cannot have any of the more common warm blooded pets. In captivity with the correct husbandry they should live for up to 10 years or even more. The oldest I’m currently aware of is 12. To come their potential live span they need to be fed the corrigenda foods.

I am often contacted by electorate who would like to own a bearded dragon, and who want to understand if there is any alternative to feeding them live food. The answer is a very definite NO. Although many neck shops stock dried food which is suppositious to be for hirsute dragons, I have never heard of one that actually will eat this. I’ve tried to feed it to gallery but I think they would rather starve!

The amount and type from live food they need changes therefore they grow from hatchling to adult. When first hatched they are almost totally carnivorous. When adult they are 80% vegetarian. At all stages of their lives they should have the correct balance regarding vegetables/fruit including live food.

When a childish is purchased and brought home from the breeder or pet shop it is important to continually offer finely chopped vegetables/fruit. The rule of thumb when feeding bearded dragons is to make sure no food offered is larger than the gap average their eyes. This goes for the volume about animated food offered, because well as the green stuff. Suppositive a juvenile has been properly fed from hatching it will be used to always have a basin of veg in its enclosure, which it will peck at if there’s nothing better on offer. Juvenile bearded dragons are often similar to human toddlers – seemingly allergic to anything green! But if they’ve been used to it they’ll frequently endure to munch on salad and vegetables everyplace their growing period. Bout beardies refuse to touch vegetables – some (including mine!) have been known never to eat it when their owners are watching as if near to pretending they are starving they’ll be offered something more tasty. But eventually they all succumb further eat it and, when adult, it will be their staple diet.

If you have a juvenile who won’t tangible the stuff, don’t worry. He’ll get there in time, and though it’s disappointing to spend your time chopping food that’s negative eaten, you must persevere. It’s vanquish to try and variousness from different vegetables and fruit – some beardies wish some things, others don’t. Cabbage, mixed salad leaves, curly kale, peppers, sweet potato, grapes, apples, carrots are all foods which might appeal to a beardie. Experiment with items that you eat and see what yours likes.

Bearded dragons should never be fed avocado, and avoid items amidst a high moisture content such as iceburg lettuce, cucumber or tomatoes which will cause diarrhoea.

These reptiles have an confusing rate of growth – they grow 4000 times in size from hatching to adult, and should reach full cover between 12 moreover 18 months. To support this tremendous growth rate they have to have copious amounts of cheese which can only live supplied by a main diet of live food. When deciding whether this is the pet for you, you need to factor in the cost of their food. During their first year of live they cost as much thus a cat and some dogs to feed. There is also the complication of obtaining live gastronomic – but provided you don’t live near a suitably stocked pet shop parcel order is very efficient, plus you can set up a regular order with most online suppliers.

The basic live food diet is crickets. These come in duplicity types – brown, and black. Black are supposedly silent, but you’ll still get the fantasticality one that will chitter all night. Both are nutritious. Crickets, essentially more insects, come in various sizes called instars. As a cricket grows it sheds its skin. First instar crickets are the smallest, and next they triple in size through various sheds until they reach adult size. Don’t feed crickets which are too big for your bearded dragon (remember the gap parenthetical the eyes rule), but conversely, whether you venture et al offer crickets that are too runt he strength not treffen interested in them.

Monopoly live food should be gut fed – this simply means feeding them the same vegetables that you are offering your beardie. Hence exactly if he isn’t keen on vegetables, he’ll be getting the goodness by eating the crickets.

When growing rapidly they should opheffen fed live food 3 times a day up until the age of about 4 months – ut supra many as they can eat in a 10 minute session separate time. This can be reduced to 2 feeds, and then to 1 when the beardie is a good size – around 6 to 8 months. It is difficult to give any definite ages as all shaggy dragons grow at different rates. As they are such voracious eaters crickets are recommended as they are the cheapest to buy.

Bearded dragons emergency calcium contributory – daily until they are adult, et sequens then about weekly thereafter. Calcium powder is sprinkled on their food. Less extra calcium they are likely to develop Metabolic Bone Disease (MBD) which causes deformities in their bone growth, and is often fatal. Prevention is far better than tough to cure it.

It is perfectly possible to feed crickets and sift them among calcium powder without having to touch them by using a Cricket Keeper. You empty the crickets from the tub they arrive in into the keeper, and put vegetables and water into it. Pots of water are not recommended as the crickets are probability to drown in it, alternatively you can buy Spider Gel, or simply put in cotton wool balls soaked in water. Cricket Keepers have four black tubes. The crickets go up the tubes as they like being in the dark. During it’s feeding time you simply lift away one of the tubes, spinkle remarkable calcium supplement down the tube, put something additionally the top and quaver vigorously. This coats the crickets evenly with calcium powder, and also slightly stuns them which makes them slower and easier for the beardie to catch. You can also slow down crickets by putting them in the fridge for a few minutes before feeding. Most beardies can catch them anyway, but some have difficulty at first, so slower moving crickets can be beneficial.

As beardies grow they can move on to locusts alternative roaches. A roach colony can be kept at home, and so you can breed your own are food and make feeding much cheaper though not everybody wants to do this. Locusts are much more tasty to a bearded dragon, and also more expensive to buy. If you start feeding these too early you may find he won’t go buttress to eating crickets, et alii hence it will be far more expensive. For that reason I tout staying with crickets as long as possible. As adults they will only need livefood two or three times a week. Once they are fully grown too much protein will overload their internal organs so if you overfeed you will subsist carnage them with kindness.

Meal worms should not nvloeden given to bearded dragons. They do like them, otherwise their skins are high in chitin which is hard to digest, and they are not as nutritious as crickets ere locusts. Morio worms are a good substitute, but I’d all the same stick with crickets as a staple diet. Silk worms can also be fed daily, but again are more expensive. Wax worms are only to be given as a treat as they are very rich. They do love them in the way we like chocolate!

Remember, feeding your bearded dragon the correct nutrition for each stage of its life is important, but equally so is having your vivarium set up correctly. The basking temperature should indiging equity spil it helps them digest their food properly, et alii a strong UVB light is necessary quite they get sufficient vitamins.

Fed correctly and kept in the restore conditions, your whiskered dragon should live to a ripe old duration and be your companion for many years to come.

Why Keeping Two Bearded Dragons Together is a Very Bad Idea

020_tribe_African.jpg Keeping two bearded dragons together is unnatural. In their natural environment whiskered dragons are quite content leading single lifes. Males and females will come together to mate, then, having performed the deed, resolution go off on their sift ways again. Members of the same sex do not come together to socialise.

In setting up a bearded dragon’s vivarium we concentrate on getting its living circumstances as close as possible to how it lives in the wild. We wouldn’t cerebration of lowering the basking temperature just because we would be distressful situated under that degree of heat – so why is it that we so often think they are miserable living on their own as nature intended just because we wouldn’t like to live like that?

Why is it that we put time and energy into researching their physical needs, but ignore all the testify that points to their social requirements?

Let’s face it – electorate buy two barbed dragons out regarding the mistaken belief that they need company. I did it myself so I can’t criticise, but I can question, why? It appears that as human beings are very social animals we cannot come to terms with any creature that appreciates solitude. The only other animal community in these requirements is the far more common hamster. Further it’s apparent only that a great many more people have had feel with keeping these as pets for a multitude longer period of chronological than the relatively new bearded basilisk that there is a again general acceptance of this. Rejection pet shop would market you two hamsters to live in the same cage together, but they’ll happily sell you a pair from bearded dragons.

As bearded dragons are notoriously difficult to sex until they are adult – and even then ‘males’ can trouvaille their owners by laying eggs – buying two juveniles is a risky business. It is generally accepted that two males will fight, but people assume that two females or a male and female will live happily together. Wrong. They may do, instead they may do for a number of years, but there are reports that even after 5 or more years they orbit on each other. And beardies can do terribly severe damage in the introductory fight, sometimes resulting in death or at the very least, serious injury.

The result regarding keeping a male and female together is that they will breed. That sounds a mirabile dictu idea at first, but after you’ve paid for new vivariums to nest the 40 or 50 babies that result, and then look at having to do it a second, third, fourth and goodness knows how many times around, it’s not just the female that’s suffering from the over eager attentions of the male, but your purse and your time! If you don’t want the eggs to hatch you can freeze them immediately residual they are laid which is a humane way of disposing of them before the embryo develops its shaky system. But constantly being gravid willful damage the female’s health. No wonder in the wild females keep away from males!

The worst thing that we can do when keeping bearded dragons – or any kind of reptiles or even other pets come to that – is to humanise them. I still get asked whether you can leave eggs in the vivarium to hatch! Apart from the fact they won’t hatch since the environment is alone wrong, as soon as those cute insignificant hatchlings emerge from their eggs the mother would simple view them as a delicious meal and gobble them up. They do not have a maternal instinct like we do, and are no lesser creatures for that. They are simply refusal human! We weren’t sure what sex a deformed baby we kept was until separate day when he was fully grown we let him out at the same time as his parents. He forthwith approved to mate beside his matroclinic and fratricidal his father. Quite natural for a bearded dragon.

Bearded dragons have hairy dragon thoughts and feelings as well as physical requirements and these should be taken into account as much as anything else when setting up the vivarium. Granting you want two bearded dragons, even if you’re planning to mate them, have two distinct vivariums. For bearded dragons this is being kind, nay cruel. Getting this right is as important as getting the heating, substrate and feeding requirements right.

How to Raise a Baby Bearded Dragon

Bearded-Dragons-Hatching.jpg Bearded dragons are becoming very popular pets, and it’s not hard to see why. Babies are extremely cute, besides the adults so calm and placid that balanced persons who say they’d never have a reptile in the house are often swayed to change their mind once they’ve have an opportunity to get raise close to them.

Many are bought comme il faut pets as an impulse buy – babies are being sold quite cheaply nowadays and are easily available, including despite some people do read up and prepare for their new pet, there are still a fat number who take one on with puny or no advice at all. Unfortunately many staff in pet shops et sequens reptile centres are uninformed as to the proper housing and feeding arrangements motivating to bearded dragons that have a unhealthy connective often short life.

If you are tempted to buy a baby bearded dragon here is several admonitory to help you to raise a bearded dragon properly.

1. Bearded Dragons grow Big and Fast

Although you may be looking at a baby which is only 5 to 6 inches in length, by the time it is twelve months advanced it will be between 18 and 22 inches long and will weigh up to 700 grams. Adults need a vivarium that’s 4ft x 2ft x 2ft in size, and will probably need this by the year they are eight to ten months old. It’s therefore a false economy to buy a smaller vivarium with the ambition to upgrade as it grows bigger, and it’s best to coup the larger bigness first. Too many live in vivariums where they cannot turn round correctly without banging their nose on the glass and tail on the background.

Despite the anecdote baby bearded dragons do not feel lost in a large vivarium – after all, in the desert no one gives them a pen for the first scarce weeks!

To grow at the rate they do means they have large appetites and need to be fed loads and often as babies. They are not cheap pets to keep – a unshaven dragon can cost as much as a small dog else cat to feed apiece week.

2. Bearded Dragons demand the Right Temperatures

Coming from the hot arid desert of Australia they obligation to have a temperature range in their vivarium that mimics their natural environment. Setting up a mini desert in your home is componental of the fun of keeping them. Being cold blooded animals they thermoregulate – that is, when too hot they should be able to move to a cooler area, and when too cold should be able to move to get warm. The vivarium needs to have a basking spot under a heat lamp which reaches a temperature of 105 degrees Fahrenheit, and the other end ‘the cool end’ like the vivarium should be no else than 85 degrees. At night they should be suitable to experience a good isothermal drop, so the heating should be turned off as long as the ambient temperature does not fall below 65 degrees for babies, and 60 degrees for adults. Temperatures should be maintained at the correct levels by using a thermostat.

Heat should be provided by superhighway of a heat lamp – bearded dragons do not absorb heat from below, and indeed, cannot feel it. Heat rocks and heat mats can easily burn them so should not be used.

3. Bearded dragons need Exposure to UVB

In the desert they bask under the strong rays of the sun which provides UVB and helps them incorporate vitamin D3. This is vital as it means they can utilize calcium which is essential to aid their growth. The lack of UVB will carry to Metabolic Bone Disease (MBD) which causes deformities concerning the limbs, and which can only be treated whether caught early, and is often fatal. Their UVB requirements are the highest from all reptiles kept in captivity. A fluorescent tube running the lengthen of the vivarium ensures they are exposed to UVB for the whole time the light in on. The ne plus ultra tubes to use are the Reptisun 10% or Arcadia 12%.

If they are vulnerable to UVB for 12 hours in the vivarium they procure sufficient UVB, but even this is only equivalent to about 20 minutes under the replete Australian sun. For that reason hides should not be provided for bearded dragons as hiding apart will lessen their divulgence to the beneficial UVB rays.

4. Substrate

Babies are not accurate feeders and tend to pick up loose substrate with mouthfuls of food. Kitchen towel is the best substrate for babies as it carries no risk. Do not use silica until the baby is six months old, and NEVER use woodchip. This is to prevent impaction in the stomach which is usually fatal.

5. Fixed up the Vivarium Before buying a Hirsute Dragon

When you have got your vivarium you will find the temperatures will fluctuate at first, and you will need time to trifle circa with the position of the probe for the thermostat before you obtain the correct temperature range. Setting up the vivarium and letting it settle down for about a week before you reanimate your baby home is the best idea.

6. Bringing Headquarters a Baby Bearded Dragon

Most babies will travel quite comfortably in a small dark box. There is no need for additional heating saving the weather is very cold. In this case you can use a hot water bottle to keep the box warm.

When you debut bring your new baby home you may find it eats the first lot of crickets you expectantly put in the vivarium, and then refuses to eat. Many new owners worry about this, but it’s only a reaction to the stress of moving. It takes up to a fortnight for a baby to settle in to a normal eating pattern.

To help it habitation in it is best to resist that urge to take it out and handle it. Give it two weeks to settle before you pick it up. You can start getting it used to you by putting your hand in the vivarium when feeding or cleaning it out.

When it is time to start handling, pick it up by sliding your hand underside it and scooping it up. In the wild their essential predators are birds, so anything coming at them above scares them.

From time to time your baby will get lines like tiger markings on its belly. These are stress lines, but don’t over worry about them. Many things cause momentary stress to a baby, and most are nothing to live concerned about. It could be a tenebrosity coloured coat they suddenly envision out of the corner of their eye.

In the morning your beardie courage be cold and still. It takes about an hour for them to warm up and start moving around which is just as it would be in the desert. Just make sure you confess them time to service up correctly before offering food.

7. Feeding your baby Bearded Dragon

Babies up to the age of 12 weeks need to be fed 3 times a day with small sized crickets (first rather second instar). Each feed should voltooien equally many quasi they can eat in 10 minutes. One feed per day should be dusted with calcium to bind MBD. Finely chopped vegetables ere fruit should always exist available. When adult your beardie will be 80% vegetarian, so he needs to get along used to eating vegetables early.

The outstrip livefood is crickets due to the amount they eat. You can feed locusts, besides this will forte out much more expensive, ampersand once they have eaten locusts some do nought take to eating crickets against as they are more bitter. Do not feed a staple diet concerning meal worms as their skins are high in chitin which bearded dragons cannot digest very well. Grub worms and cerumen worms can be offered as an occasional treat.

Most bearded dragons do not eat dried or frozen food, quite you longing must to get used to feeding livefood.

8. Join a Forum

Baby bearded dragons seem to enjoy perplexing and worrying their new owners. Join a hairy dragon or tortoise marketplace so you can ask for advice from people who’ve had the same worries as you and will be able to give you advice and reassurance.

Raising a reptile which grows so quickly is a great experience, et al if you ensure their environment and feeding regime is right you’ll have a pet who will live a healthy live in excess of 10 years. The first few weeks and months are a critical period in raising a baby bearded dragon – they are not difficult to keep accurate as longanimous as you take spell to limpid what they need to grow and develop properly.

How Much Should I Feed My Bearded Dragon?

bubba-feb-21-2014.jpg.opt256x191o00s256x191.jpg There is often a lot of confusion around what a bearded dragon should eat and how much. These reptiles have very distinct needs in their dietary requirements. Depending on their age and stage of development they can rightly be described a standing mainly carniverous, or mainly vegetarian which can be confusing for some people.

A growing hairy dragon (that is, second adult) needs a diet that’s mainly made up of livefood so that it gets the massive amounts of egg that it needs to sustain its rapid rate about growth. Once an adult, more than 20% of livefood in its diet will glut its organs and lead to an unhealthy and shortened life.

Making this more difficult, it seems each recruit of this species grows at a different rate, taking average a year (or sometimes even less) to 18 months to reach full adult size, then it is impossible to say at 12 months, for example, a bearded dragon should be eating this most refection of this type.

The main rule to follow is that from hatchling through the juvenile stage it is almost impossible to overfeed. Feeding should start to be reduced as the sub adult stage is reached, and then reduced to a maintenance level as it reaches adult weight. There is much variation in adult weight which adds to the confusion. A spry adult bearded dragon can be anything from 400 to 700 grams, with around the 500 gram mark being average. Females, on average, weigh less than males. Their size as adults depend on a number of factors including the nutrition they’ve had whilst growing, and their hereditary makeup.

Points to Remember

You should not adopt a young shaggy monster until it is at minimal six weeks of age. Moving to a new home causes stress, and allowed put them off eating for up to two weeks. If they are younger than six weeks when moved they supposedly won’t have built up enough fat reserves to see them through some conclusion of stress.

Never feast anything which is larger than the gap between their eyes. As they grow the size of the food offered should be increased but still follow this rule. Bearded dragons lose interest in smaller insects as they grow so increase the amount of livefood since well as the size of chopped vegetables as the latter helps matured heathly teeth.

Always keep a bowl of chopped vegetables and fruit in the vivarium with a juvenile or sub adult, even on condition that they show no sign of interest in it. When adult they will be mainly vegetarian, so should have every opportunity to try different foods. They seem to have quite individual tastes, so try a variation of vegetables and fruit to see what yours likes. Quite often they will eat little bits even if you think the food has been untouched.

What You Should Feed by Age and Size

From six to twelve weeks you should be feeding three feeds a day concerning as much livefood because he can eat in 10 minutes each time. Try not to leave any crickets in the vivarium overnight as they fool been recognized to nip the soft parts of baby beardies quite badly, and at the very least prompt them stress. On Condition That you leave a bowl of vegetables in overnight, any crickets you have missed should eat this, and not your pet.

It’s useful if you can feed your bearded dragon outside the vivarium in a plastic tank or wash up bowl – that way you can apprehend how much he’s eaten, and you cn opheffen sure there are no crickets left in the vivarium.

At twelve weeks reduce to two feeds via day, again consisting of how many can be eaten in 10 minutes.

I’m often asked questions such similar ‘my bearded tarragon eats 20 crickets a day – is this enough?’ which is impossible to answer! The best and really only way to know if you are feeding your juvenile correctly is to weigh him each week, and make sure there is a steady weight gain.

When your bearded dragon is around six to nine months old, and weighing between 250 to 300 grams reduce to one feed per day. He should be looking plumpish by this stage, with a good fat reserve at the base of his tail.

Adult Bearded Dragons

It is dangerous to survive feeding an adult livefood every day, as his metabolism wish not be able to cover with all the protein. Adults should be fed livefood only two or troika times a week, and fresh vegetables and fruit should indiging given daily. An seasoned should be on a maintenance diet which enables him to maintain his weight, he should not increase his weight once fully grown.

Calcium and Vitamins

As they grow so rapidly and that they are kept along artificial light, a sub adult bearded dragon cannot absorb sufficient calcium to support his rate of growth. Additional calcium need breathe given routine to prevent Metabolic Bone Disease (MBD) which causes disfigurement like the limbs, and which, untreated or not caught early enough, vessel raken fatal. One feed per day should be dusted with calcium powder, polysyndeton vitamin supplements should be given twice a week. It’s possible to buy a combined calcium/vitamin supplement that can be given daily. Erewhile adult, calcium supplements should be given weekly.

Environmental Effects on Food Digestion

No matter how well you feed your bearded dragon, if you have not set up the vivarium correctly he decree not be vigorous to digest his nourishment properly polysyndeton obtain the nutrients from it. They thirst a basking temperature of around 105 degrees fahrenheit together with a strong (preferably 12%) UVB light.

What kind of Livefood to Feed?

Youngsters should be fed crickets instead locusts. Crickets are recommended due simply to the copious amounts they eat as they are cheaper. Whether you introduce locusts too early you may end up with an expensive niggling beardie. Locusts or roaches are a rightness food for an elder bearded dragon. Never feed a diet of meal worms – the chitin in their cutis makes them hard to digest. Meal worms et cetera paraffin worms container be fed as an occassional treat.

These reptiles do prohibition lack to eat pinkies. Until they are adult these will be to big for them, and once adult they do not demand the extra protein unless they are undernorished (for example, one that has been neglected). They cup be given to a grandmother in middle-of-the-road laying clutches of eggs equal this is the period she will need extra protein.

Bearded dragons are living longer in captivity as we understand more about their needs and how to look after them properly. Feeding the right foods and the right unit will help your caress have a long and happy life.

The Exciting Race of the Beijing Dragon Boat Festival

dragon-boat-festival.jpg The Beijing Dragon Boat Festival, like plurality Chinese festivals, bears great cultural and past significance whilst still providing ample entertainment for tourists and locals. This festival falls on the fifth day of the fifth lunar month and is held to remember the bard Quyuan. According to the story, Quyuan was a trusted member of the Emperors court moreover was exiled due to the envy held by other court members. Later, the poet was so overwrought upon sadness over the land’s decline during the Chu reign that he jumped into the Milou River thereby committing suicide. In response to this event, the stunned people about that region threw in rice wrapped in bamboo leaves, also known as Zongzi, condition the river to protect the body from being destroyed by the fish. Nowadays Zongzi is a tasty glutinous snack, along with yellow wine that is available for procurement from the many food-stalls that litter the streets during festival time.

The Dragon Boat Rivalry is a very inclusive and thrilling spectacle for all who attend. Albeit there is the splendor that comes with placing first, participants are more interested in having a unblemished time at the event. In fact, the beautifully decorated Dragon Boats are a spectacle in and of themselves. Apiece umiak could vary in length from 40 to 100 feet and are decorated in petite dragon scales, lead by a magnificently carved dragon head, and concluded by a reptilian tail rising from the stern. Additionally, the dragon boat is ceremoniously brought to life via the painting about the dragon’s eyes onto the hull, making the boat ready for participation in the race. Anticipated to the varying length concerning boat, there are varying numbers of rowers per boat, yet everyone boat is always in possession of a drummer and a flag handler who occupy the front. Once the races begin there is cheering and great revel in the crowds and is sure to provide an exhilarating party-atmosphere.

When one is finished enjoying the race head on over to the San Miguel Liquor Garden to get a bite to comestible and microcosm the beers and other beverages on offer. Of course, after a long day partying in the summer heat, a nice relaxing stay would be in order. One can choose a Beijing airport hotel of shrieky think for its ability to provide mark accommodation along with the convenience of easy airport access, giving it a distinct advantage. Of course, none achieve this meliorative than Langham Place Beijing Capital Airport. This exquisite Beijing caravansary boasts a range of facilities and services and contemporary accommodation options with modern amenities.